澳洲葡萄酒王 -奔富酒莊（Penfolds）
奔富酒莊位於南澳的巴羅薩谷（Barossa Valley），它是澳洲最著名、最大的葡萄酒莊，被認為是澳洲葡萄酒的象徵，也有人稱他是澳洲葡萄酒業的貴族。
奔富酒莊的創始人是一位來自英國的年輕醫生-克里斯多夫·羅森·奔富。1844 年，在他準備離開英國並前往澳洲時，獲得了當時法國南部的部分葡萄樹藤，並且把它帶到了南澳的阿德雷德（Adelaide）。1845 年，他為了釀造製藥用酒，在阿德雷德的市郊瑪吉爾（Magill）種下了這些葡萄樹苗，以法國南部的傳統種植葡萄。他在葡萄園的中心建造了個小石屋，他們夫婦把這小石屋稱為 Grange，在英文中的意思為農莊，這也是日後奔富酒莊最富盛名的葡萄酒 Grange 系列的由來，這個系列的葡萄酒在如今的市場中成為眾多葡萄酒收藏家競相收購的目標。
奔富酒莊依據百年來精準的眼光，陸續於南澳購入了多處頂級葡萄園，做為混釀酒款的穩定來源。從巴羅莎谷（Barossa Valley）東側的伊登谷地（Eden Valley）到澳洲東南側的庫那瓦拉（Coonawarra Valley），甚至在南方的離島塔斯馬尼亞（Tasmania）都可見到高掛「Penfolds」招牌字樣的葡萄園。
「源自 1844，醇臻雋永」這是一句傳承釀酒藝術的口號，融合了熱情、責任、勇氣與耐性，如今，這樣的釀酒藝術的傳承在全世界發揚光大。170 多年來，Penfolds 因其卓越的釀酒藝術讓酒莊獲得無數榮耀，而這些榮譽來自於高品質的葡萄園、優越的釀酒資源以及傑出釀酒師們。Penfolds 釀酒藝術傳承至今，已成為澳洲最受尊敬的酒莊之一。
(2018年份)
James Suckling 99
A great St. Henri and, although multi-regional, this is very much a wine that speaks of the Barossa Valley, with aromas of ripe blackberries and red plums that are so fresh, together with tobacco, young-leather, earth, chocolate, coal-smoke and tarry accents. Effortless depth on the palate with summer berries, framed in fine, alabaster-like tannins that are underscored with discreet power. So long and captivating. A blend of Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Port Lincoln, Robe, Padthaway, Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills.
James Halliday 97
Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Port Lincoln, Robe, Padthaway, Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills fruit. Matured 12 months in 50+yo vats. The effortless, unassuming self-assuredness of St Henri holds a unique and beloved place in the assemblage of Penfolds heroes, and 2018 marks a particularly special release. Accomplished, spicy, glossy black fruits of grand integrity unfold to magnificent effect in the glass, contrasting a fine-boned frame of rigid yet graceful, powder-fine tannins that carry a finish of long-lingering line and alluring appeal. I look forward to spectating from the sidelines as its fruit slowly unfurls over the decades to come. An adorable St Henri that exemplifies all that this label stands for.
Wine Advocate 97
The 2018 St Henri Shiraz is a terrific effort, perhaps rivaling the top-flight wines under this label in 1976 and 1986. Remarkably fine and silky in texture yet simultaneously dense and concentrated, it showcases the amazing fruit harvested in 2018. Boysenberry, mulberry and mocha shadings all swirl together effortlessly in a whorl of full-bodied elegance, finishing long and effortless. Mainly Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, it includes smaller amounts of fruit from Port Lincoln, Robe, Padthaway, Clare Valley and the Adelaide Hills, all aged 12 months in large old wooden vats.
Falstaff 97
Dark, opaque ruby garnet, faint ochre brightening on the rim. Initially somewhat restrained, but with cinnamon-like spices and cashew nut in the background, fig notes, olive and some liquorice, opening slowly with aeration. Substantial, fine blackberry fruit, sweet cherry with a hint of nougat, highly elegant and very persistent, mineral and long. Fine salinity with earthy notes on the finish. Immensely promising with great ageing potential.
Vinous 95
Dark, bright-rimmed violet color. A wild, highly complex bouquet evokes spice-tinged black/blue fruits, pipe tobacco, savory herbs, potpourri and olive paste. Weighty and yet energetic in style, offering mineral-driven bitter cherry, cassis, chewing tobacco and exotic spice flavors that turn sweeter through the back half. Round, slowly building tannins give framework to a very long, smoky finish that echoes the cherry and tobacco notes.
Decanter 93
A shift in emphasis for St Henri, with its gaze fixed on depth and seriousness rather than its familiar comforting embrace. With no new oak, it’s always a fruit-driven statement, but this time the rich, red earthy tones are clouded over by a deep well of purple and blue fruit flavours. As a result, it appears to have a broader frame than before, finishing a bit short for a wine of this stature, but still with lots of pleasing savoury grip on the finish.
Wine Spectator 93
Juicy blueberry and huckleberry fruit flavors at the core are accented by black and red licorice details, with dense, grippy tannins and notes of black pepper and Earl Grey tea. Impressive for its concentration and focus, along with its muscular structure.
Wine & Spirits 92
Post WWII, as winemaking moved into the modern era, there was a decade’s long shift toward stainless steel and new oak barrels. At Penfolds, that shift began with Max Schubert’s development of Grange, finishing top selections of shiraz in new French oak barrels. But the company never abandoned its old oak vats, sustaining an alternate top selection of shiraz as St. Henri, which never sees a barrel. This 2018 takes St. Henri’s savory style toward richness, lasting on sweet blueberry fragrance and gentle, meaty tannins. The wine needs a day or two to open; better to wait on it in the cellar for a decade or more, when it will deliver its riches and restraint with complexity.
