Legendary Bordeaux vintages are renowned for their drinkability, yet by the time they reach drinkable maturity, their prices often become prohibitively expensive. The adage ‘a great vintage never produces a bad wine’ holds true, for even second growths can deliver exceptional quality in truly outstanding years. Having recently sampled the 2020 Château Citran ahead of its release, I find myself curious about how it will evolve and price itself over the coming decade. After all, 2020 stands as a legendary vintage for Bordeaux. Yet waiting for a 2020 bottle feels like an eternity, so why not sample the equally legendary 2010 and 2016 vintages of Château Citran? At Wine Couple, we offer them at just $180 (2016) and $235 (2010).
That day, I sampled dozens of Bordeaux châteaux, including many prestigious names. These renowned estates certainly possess immense potential, each displaying excellent structure, ample tannins, abundant new oak aromas, and youthful, powerful fruit. Yet it's abundantly clear they require considerable time to mature. Frankly, by the time they reach their peak, I doubt I'll be able to afford opening many bottles...
Consequently, my focus shifted towards estates less renowned than the grands crus, yet possessing considerable potential. Regrettably, such gems proved elusive—until encountering Château Citran. Admittedly, my motivation for sampling this estate stemmed from necessity, as the prestigious estates were utterly besieged... I approached it with a “why not give it a go” attitude. Perhaps it was the excellent vintage, perhaps the substantial backing of its family ownership, or perhaps a combination of factors, but even alongside estates costing several times more, Citran still managed to stand out.
Château Citran ranks among the oldest estates in the Médoc region. Its formal development began in 1945 when the Miailhe family acquired the estate and commenced vineyard cultivation. At that time, the Miailhe family already held the prestigious estates of Palmer, Pichon Lalande, and Coufran. Though situated on the Left Bank, under the Miailhe family's stewardship, the vineyard cultivated a high proportion of Merlot, laying the foundation for Château Citran's subsequent style. In recent years, however, the estate has increased its Cabernet Sauvignon planting to achieve greater balance. The 2010 and 2020 vintages stand among Château Citran's finest.
Though one might find Robert Parker awarded the 2020 vintage a mere 88 points, another esteemed critic (particularly within Bordeaux circles), Jancis Robinson, bestowed the 2020 Citran with 16.5 points (its highest score in a decade). This illustrates that no perfect wine can satisfy every palate.
Personally, I greatly admire Chateau Citran's approach of using less than 40% new oak. This allows the grapes' inherent aromas to shine through – captivating violet floral notes, abundant blackberry and blackcurrant, plus a rich liquorice character. The finish is admittedly rather plain, yet the depth is undeniable. With further ageing, it should become even more appealing. Honestly, one couldn't really ask for more, ha ha.
Ultimately, the vintage's power speaks for itself. If you're intrigued, why not pick up a bottle? Gather a few close friends and discover what a legendary vintage tastes like after years of ageing. Even among the second growths, surprises can be found.
